Why 4 Skin Types Isn't Enough (And What I Use Instead)
- Gari
- Jan 24
- 4 min read
Table of Contents
Quick Insights
There is no universal agreement on how many skin types exist. Models range from 3 to 16 or more.
Traditional categories (normal, dry, oily, combination) are oversimplified and fail to capture real-world nuance.
Skin type = baseline oil and moisture balance. Skin condition = temporary changes.
A more useful framework considers spectrum levels of dryness/oiliness, sensitivity, and acne-proneness, combined with Fitzpatrick type and current concerns.
Why I Started Questioning Skin Types
If you ask ten experts how many skin types exist, you will get ten different answers. Some will say four, others seven, sixteen, or even more. The beauty industry keeps multiplying categories, but that doesn’t necessarily make things clearer for consumers.
When I studied esthetics, I was taught the standard four (sometimes five, with sensitivity as an optional add-on). Even back then, I struggled with how rigid this felt. A client with mildly dry skin and a client with near-eczema dryness were both labeled “dry,” even though their needs were completely different.
That’s where the cracks in the system start to show.
The Traditional Four (and Sometimes Five) Skin Types
The model most people know includes:
Dry Skin: tight, rough, dull, flaky.
Oily Skin: shiny, prone to clogged pores.
Normal Skin: balanced, still can break out.
Combination Skin: oily in some areas, dry or normal in others.
Sensitive Skin: sometimes added as a fifth category.
The Fitzpatrick Scale and Its Limits
The Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype Classification was created in 1975 to predict sunburn risk and tanning response.
It ranges from Type I (very fair, always burns) to Type VI (deeply pigmented, rarely burns).
While useful for assessing UV sensitivity and treatment risks, it doesn’t address oil balance, hydration, or conditions like acne.
Critics argue it oversimplifies ethnicity and is outdated as a standalone tool.
Expanding Beyond Four: Baumann, Rouleau, and Other Models
Baumann’s 16 Types: Based on four binary traits (dry vs. oily, sensitive vs. resistant, pigmented vs. non-pigmented, wrinkled vs. tight).
Useful for nuance, but overwhelming in practice.
Renée Rouleau’s 9 Types: More approachable, blending common patterns.
The Ordinary’s 3 Types: Dry, oily, combination. No 'normal' because they believe all skin is normal. Built for concerns, not labels.
Each of these reflects the same frustration: the classic four doesn't work for everyone. Some expand it, some simplify it.
Why Skin Types Feel So Rigid (and What’s Missing)
"Skin doesn’t fit neatly into boxes. It exists on a spectrum."
When we call two very different clients “dry skin types,” we lose nuance. Some dermatologists and estheticians responded by inventing new categories, but adding more numbers doesn’t solve the issue.
A spectrum-based approach makes more sense than rigid labels.
What I Propose: A More Useful Skin Profile
Instead of endlessly multiplying "types," we can refine the framework:
Skin Type Spectrum (baseline oil + water balance)
- Very dry → Moderately dry → Slightly dry → Balanced
→ Slightly oily → Moderately oily → Very oily
or
- Combination (with zone detail, e.g., "oily T-zone, dry cheeks")
Sensitivity level
Not sensitive → Mildly sensitive → Highly sensitive
Acne-proneness
Not acne-prone → Acne-prone
Fitzpatrick type / ethnicity considerations
Important for treatment safety and pigmentation tendencies
Skin concerns and goals
What the client wants to focus on (fine lines, uneven tone, etc.)
Example profiles:
Mildly sensitive, acne-prone, very dry skin, Fitzpatrick III
Not sensitive, not acne-prone, slightly oily skin, Fitzpatrick V
Highly sensitive, acne-prone, combination skin (moderately oily T-zone, slightly dry cheeks), Fitzpatrick IV
This approach provides nuance without overwhelming complexity.
It's not about forcing everyone into a rigid category, but creating a flexible profile that helps guide product and treatment choices.
Common Myths About Skin Types
Myth: "Skin types can change daily."
Truth: False. What changes daily is skin condition. Type is more stable.
Myth: "Normal/Balanced skin is perfect skin."
Truth: False. “Normal” just means balanced. Pimples can still happen.
Myth: "Sensitive skin is always a type."
Truth: Not always. Sensitivity can be a temporary condition or a lifelong tendency.
FAQ
Q: Can I have both oily and dry skin at the same time? A: Yes, that’s combination skin. Oil production isn’t uniform across the face.
Q: Does aging change my skin type? A: Not always, but hormonal shifts and slower oil production can make skin feel drier over time.
Q: Should I choose products based only on my skin type? A: No. Skin type is your baseline, but conditions and goals should guide your routine.
Final Thoughts
Skin typing has been stretched from four categories to sixteen or more, but the truth is simpler: skin is a spectrum, not a set of boxes.
A practical profile considers your oil/moisture balance, sensitivity, acne tendency, Fitzpatrick type, and current concerns.
This balance of nuance and simplicity makes skin care more personal, but not overwhelming.
